Avant Garde, non?

I've neglected to mention that for the past three weeks the fashion world has been staging its biggest events of the year: NYFW, LFW, MFW and right now PFW. Yes, loads of acronyms but I'm pretty sure once I decipher them for you, you'll be kicking yourself. I'm pretty sure you know what I'm talking about:

Starting it all off (Sept 9th), on my side of the pond: NYFW - New York Fashion Week

Followed by the city that houses my heart: LFW - London Fashion Week

Next we went on a trip down to the tastemakers: MFW - Milan Fashion Week

And finalement, rounding it all out this week (Oct 7th) in the City of Light: PFW - Paris Fashion Week

These shows are for the next season: Spring Summer 2011. When I first figured out the fashion calendar I found all this advance previewing very confusing... I mean the Spring Ready to Wear runway shows are in September (when the biggest fashion issue of all magazines comes out with the fall preview), then the Spring/Summer Couture runway shows premiere in January, Fall/Winter Ready to Wear runway shows preview in February and finishing the cycle, Winter Couture runway shows occur in July... confused yet. This all makes sense in the scheme of things because when you buy your copy of VOGUE or Harper's or Elle they are always previewing clothes for the upcoming season: therefore you have an idea of which trends are in and then can buy those clothes in time for the season. 'Savy?

My absolute favorite designer's Spring Collection is being shown today (in less than 4 hours!) and I am waiting in such anticipation that everyone around me is treading on eggshells, lest I break into tears. I'm actually surprised I haven't done an individual post about said designer; but I shall reveal to you that my designer icon is, the one and only and exceptionally missed: Alexander McQueen. Last year, February 11th, I pretty much cried myself to sleep after his suicide and there are few days that go by where I don't mention or think about him. In my 'Pretty Proenza' post I had a slight tantrum about how much I lusted after his iconic skull print scarf... 

Well little did I know that I was to become the owner of this item only a week later on my birthday, and trust me. There were major waterworks.

So, yeah. Loads to look forward to for Spring 2011 when I get to the whole archiving. But SO excited about the McQueen show, the first without Lee. GOOD LUCK Sarah Burton!

On to today's agenda.... I have two, three hour art history lectures a week. One from 6:30 - 9:30pm Wednesday night and the other 8:30 - 11:30am Thursday morning. Talk about back to back. Anyway, last week in my morning lecture (Modern Art History) we were talking about the 'avant-garde' and attempted to define it, and we came up with this: Avant Garde: New, ahead of it’s time, aesthetically advanced, sometimes synonymous with ‘modern’. Art that attempts to achieve the goals of political revolution. I would like to add that it often pushes the envelope and exceptionally creatively charged. Keep these definitions in mind on our trip today, because that is exactly what this post is... a complete and utter mind trip into the world of Winter Couture a la 2010 style. Take a deep breath... seriously.


Bienvenue a Paris... July 2010. I did a post a couple months previously about what Couture is... a little refresher: it means 'high dress-making' and it is the uuber extravagant side to the fashion world, where the clothes are almost unwearable and and almost all conceptual.


This is John Galliano's domain and this collection is not without color or his sense of theatricality, 'cause when you're the Creative Director of a brand like Dior you need to be a little crazy. The collection was an ode to nature and if you didn't see the parallel between the flowered background and the clothes, you were crazy. The pretty models traipsed down the runway looking like exotic flowers from a tropical rainforest while donning Stephen Jones veils made to look like colored florist's plastic wrap. 

OK, I've given you a teeny tiny peek at what this visual assault, but before you become fully engaged I want you to keep the work of glassblower Dale Chihuly in mind, especially his fantastical potted plants below. I find colors, shapes and patterns are spot on and very similar. It is obvious both men, artist and designer, spent hours in intense study of plant life in order to articulate them correctly.

I also want you to look at some of these exotic flowers and draw comparisons as well:

You are now free to take a gander at the rest of John's fantastic collection:

Are your eyes exhausted yet? It's a pretty brilliant salute to nature and I couldn't choose a favorite look even if you paid me to. I'd love to see these dresses in a museum or gallery among other works of art with similar themes of nature and bright color. While some of the dresses are pretty literal in their allude to flowers (See: the white & purple flower print dress with the red raffia belt and the white sweater & blue printed skirt with the yellow gloves) others are more abstract and attempt to actually imitate the shapes and texture of flower petals (See: black & pink off the shoulder dress with the pink gloves - the material of the skirt ripples like curling petals. The last gown, black off the shoulder with silky draping. The silk imitates the inside of flower petals so perfectly it makes you want to stroke it.)

The more I look at this collection I think of Chihuly, who is renowned for his exotic shapes and colors. It's pretty amazing when you think about it: everything is made of glass. This boat installation is one of his favorite motifs. During his exhibition at Kew Gardens in 2005, Chihuly anchored a boat in the lake surrounded by hundreds of bobbing glass orbs. They're just absolute treasure chests of explosive color.


Chihuly mimicking a towering forest. The contrast between the slim, pointed, twisting stalks and the squat orbs creates great layers and the division of space gives the entire installation a realism.


It's hard to completely appreciate the details that go into clothes this ornate when you're seeing them from a far and in photos so I've included some close ups of the gowns, shoes and headgear. It also makes the whole affair into an abstract art exhibition.

The gown on the left is constructed of layer upon layer of tulle (similar to Viktor & Rolf's Spring 10 collection) and the top layer of satiny material is printed with a Hibiscus-like motif but look at the hem and you'll see where the real creativity is: Galliano has cut it to imitate the fringed ends of the petals and you can even see what look like the veins of the petal going up the dress. What else can I say about the look on the right, but that orange has never looked so good and electric blue is my new crush.

I'm looking at these shoes and thinking that they're microfiber suede strips that have been laser cut and then arranged together to create something vine-like. This is the most Edenic part of the show for me, especially the black twisted heels that add the only dark side to the overwhelmingly joyful presentation.

The headgear is pretty fabulous by itself. Pastel colors twisting up over the models' beehive sky high hair. The entire package makes the girls look actual like flower bouquets. The one downside to these veils is that you can't see the amazing make up as well.

Speaking of make-up...

There is none of the neutral, dewy-ness that we have come to expect of this Winter season. If I didn't know better I would say that this collection is made for Spring (although you'd sweat to death in some of the woolly fabrics and coats so, in that case, no). The color palette is no departure from the color of the garments: electric oranges, blues, sea greens and vibrant pinks. Please tell me you see the correlation between these make-up looks and this Bird of Paradise plant...

I'm going to draw another comparison and that is to these sketches by Chihuly for some of his potted plant pieces. While the backgrounds are slightly pastelly the overlapping colors pop out at you.

Moving on, meet Karlie:

This girl is what every designer dreams about, every fashion editor would sell their soul for and what every guy is petrified of: tall, stunning, amazonian, with a power charged walk and bone structure you could slice bread with. Named as one of the top 30 models of the 2000's by VOGUE FR, Karlie Kloss is going far and did I mention the statuesque beauty is just 18...? Anyway, she often opens Galliano's shows for both Dior and his own name brand and in this one she came out in a rich purple coat/dress that I think looks like a thistle... to each her own.

And so you believe that I'm not insane in peddling Galliano's wares, look who was in his front row that day: left to right Grace Coddington (Creative Director of American Vogue), the ever fabulous Anna Wintour (if you don't know this you have been living under a rock, Editor-in-Chief of Vogue), next is another fashion icon and an editorial one as well Carine Roitfeld (Editor-in-Chief of French Vogue) and lastly Patrick Demarchelier (one of the world's foremost fashion photographers).

And to top off an amazing stop on our Couture trip... Mr. Galliano himself, as over the top and fabulous as ever. He always manages to steal the spotlight... even after a fantastic show.

Pretty freakin' fabulous eh? Hope you're not Dior-ed out! Oh did I not mention we've got more to cover today?....Hehehe evil cackle of immense proportions.

Next stop: Giorgio! Now, this next man is a fashion GIANT, I am not exaggerating, he probably puts out over 20 runway collections yearly for lines like Emporio Armani, the original Giorgio Armani and his haute couture line Armani Privé. In addition he has more commercial lines such as Armani Collezioni, Armani Jeans, Armani Junior, A/X Armani Exchange, and Armani Casa. Do you have any idea who I'm talking about? Of course it is the legendary Italian Mr. Giorgio Armani. He has built one of the largest privately owned fashion houses on the face of the earth and it is so highly respected... I just can't handle it.

For this season Armani Privé focused on a highly glam Old Hollywood that carried on with the winter theme of pared back styles and colors, we saw a lot of beige and camel and brown in a collection that featured many luxe suits and skirts and his amazing evening wear that will have current Hollywood leading ladies in a frenzy.

Just so you know, not all these models are blonde... You've already met the brunette Karlie (above right). This blonde whole wig business leads me to believe that Giorgio is pretty darn serious in portraying his idea of Old Hollywood babes and my first thought was pop culture icon Marilyn Monroe. This connection led me to compare Giorgio's girls to the Andy Warhol screen print Marilyn Diptych (created several months after the star's death). This piece of art actually came up in my modern class; we were trying to decide whether it was Modern or the beginning of the Post-Modern movement. Regardless this image is Avant-Garde and I believe it is meant to be a social commentary: the left half of the image features 25 garishly colored Monroes in varying states of vibrancy while the right features 25 black and white Monroes in varying degrees of degradation. The difference in color is meant to symbolize life and death and the mysterious circumstances of her death. We only saw a colorful facade of Monroe in life, while now in death we see the ugly side of stardom. 

My point in this whole charade... do I even have one? I was just trying to draw a parallel between Armani's Old Hollywood girls and the first lady of Hollywood glam. I could definitely see her in the last outfit, the long sleeved, sequin, body con dress. I still think the curled blonde tresses are a little bit of a teaser. Below we see Armani carrying on the minimalism and a literal example of amber in the eye makeup (this collection was called A Play on Amber). Anyway... bye bye Giorgio, you've been stylish as always.

In an interview for his Fendi SpringSummer 2011 show Karl Lagerfeld said one of the coolest things I've heard in a while: 'There are two things I like in life; what I haven't done yet and what I haven't witnessed'. Pretty genius and this man is another fashion GIANT. With three lines to command every season: Chanel (who we will be looking at today), Karl Lagerfeld and Fendi Mr. Lagerfeld is one of fashion's heaviest hitters. He can make or break a model's career and can skyrocket Hollywood actresses to international fame in one second. This collection demonstrates why Karl is the only person to design for Chanel. Have I mentioned that he does theatricality in his sleep? Check out the set...

Every Chanel show is OTT, extravagant, fantastical, beautiful and moving and especially his Couture shows. This show is so detailed it's almost unbelievable that a human designed and created it... I'd definitely say it was Avant-Garde, hands down.

I see so many of the winter trends in this collection: Sleek tailoring as demonstrated through the first two looks, earthy tones: browns, maroon, cream and camel, ornate opulence as seen in the two outfits above (all those sequins! It's enough to drive a magpie crazy) and minimalism in the form of pared back make-up with only a bright lip to spice things up.

Again I needed to throw in some close ups so that you could see how ornate everything is:

Not only are the bracelets works of art in themselves but look at the weight of the fabric used in the coat on the right. It's proper winter wear (looks like a new version of brocade) and then on the left we see an example of his pure craftsmanship. The flowers look like embroidery from a far, but AHA... they include sewn on beading and sequins.

This collection is a ton more vibrant than his last Chanel Couture collection that seems as though it would have fit with the more minimal color theme of this season. Last was all pastel and pretty and this season is all edgy, hard and almost dark... I love it. It is so opulent and ornate, I see some McQueen in here (the show has happened, I'm just waiting for photos and then my life is complete).

Oh, my, gosh! I mean these pearl crinkle, Robin-Hood-meets-Maid-Marion boots are so... so.... bloody awesome. Look at the carved heels on the right. Two words... DE-TAIL. I'm usually not a huge fan of heavily embroidered and fantastical clothes like these... I'd love to say my style is Devil-may-care, London chic grunge with a cup of indie electicism but I'm more casual conservative (in the monotone, sleek cut tops with jeans or plain trousers sense, plus I find it hard to actually look fashionable when I look like a drowned pool rat most days) but I would actually wear this stuff. Shocker for some, I know.

Again, the make-up is barely there with only a light berry stain on the lips. This provides a clean palette for the clothes who do all the talking with no background noise. When you're at this caliber of fashion you don't make mistakes.... like, ever.

Next we take a small detour to someone who makes dresses that every girl would salivate over and then ruin. To be frank, these clothes are beautiful and Elie Saab is one of my favorite dressmaking brands but I don't see this collection as being as Couture as the previous three. DO NOT GET ME WRONG, these clothes are of the highest quality, I just think that John Galliano has enough theatricality for 50 designers and Elie Saab needs to rent some.

If the volume of photos didn't make it obvious, I love this show and had a real hard time choosing my favorites. All of these dresses are red carpet worthy (he's a red carpet master-dresser) I just debate the use of Couture to describe this collection. It was apparently inspired by Venice's opera house La Fenice and you can see that in the red dresses, made to mimic the ornate velvet curtains and also the gold and glitter encrusted gowns to allude to the gilding. It's a fantastical idea, but the execution is lacking conviction. You need to go all out or go home if you wanna do couture. No offense Mr. Saab. I still love you.

I feel pretty horrible belittling a collection (I haven't really done that yet, I usually ooze awe everywhere) so I hope my adoration of this next collection kinda makes up for it. Riccardo Tisci has done wonders for Givenchy and this couture collection is a complete wonder. It is one of the most stunning collections I have ever seen and this is because of the intense workmanship of all the pieces. The only word I can use to aptly describe it is 'encrusted'. These clothes are dripping with crystals, embroidery, fringing, feathers, lace, zippers... etc. I get a slightly skeletal theme from the clothes. The embroidery creeps up the models legs and arms like bones and arteries of pure white. Craftsmanship... 

I will draw one comparison to this collection and that is the last collection created by my beloved Alexander McQueen. His Winter 2010 presentation consisted of 16 pieces that he had hand crafted on the stand before his suicide. The only reason I bring them up is that they were presented in a very similar environment - guilded halls, staunch white with gold trim and the nature of the embroidery and craftsmanship employed. These three gowns are also dripping with beading and decorative appliques that are reminiscent of what Tisci has used in his engineering. Kudos, if I'm comparing you to McQueen, it means I really really really really like you.

This post is already epically long so I'm gonna cut it short with only two designers left. We can cover them on another day. I've been refreshing the Style.com homepage for hours now because I'm waiting for them to upload the McQueen photos. I'll leave you with a little teaser for what's to come.
GET EXCITED, I AM!!

Listening to: 'Let the Sun Shine' - Labyrinth
Observations: The constant refreshing of Style.com
Craving: The release of the McQueen photos, I am so excited... I will burst into tears when I finally get to see em all.

Don't stop now Monsieur Revolutionary

Hello world! I'm prepping for my 3 hour Renaissance Art History lecture, but I'm also watching my fave guilty pleasure... don't shoot me, but I'm obsessed with Jersey Shore. It absolutely cracks me up, and I can't get enough of it. Say, what you will: It's mindless, derogatory, racist, sexist, cheap, kitsch... etc, however, it is damn entertaining. For those who don't know what this show is about, it's hard to do it justice (probably because it doesn't deserve a ton) but it's about a group of Italian-American's who are self-proclaimed 'guidos' and the show revolves around them spending their summer at the Jersey Shore (although this season they're in Miami, holla). So, yes... ROFL <----- If you can't tell this is my new favorite word. You're supposed to sound the letters out 'rawhfull'... tee hee.

The wonderful and talented cast of MTV's Jersey Shore - no sarcasm please

Moving swiftly onwards, uh this past weekend is a pretty big one for my uni. It was that pivotal the time of year we Canucks and Am-uricans call Homecoming. Ok to be honest, I still don't really understand what it means but basically alot of alumni from the university come back and we have a massive football game and blah di blah blah. Fun times. Especially the engineers.... oh my favorites the engies. They get dyed purple (because did you know that purple is the universal color for engineers? Apparently the engineers on ships would wear purple bands on their shirts and if anything ever happened, they would go down with the ship, so nowadays all the engineering students dye 'emselves to honor their bravery) and they run around slamming their faculty jackets and are just crazy loud and rowdy.... brilliant :) So anyway, yeah it's late but happy homecoming Cha 'gheill!'

This is what's coming to us.

Just one more note about Homecoming at my university... in the past it has been a bit 'glug glug woo hoo' it's been toned down alot. Last year there was a pretty large convoy of police and riot officers (who were riding horses) to control the out of town population who comes to have fun. And as a spoof these t-shirts were release this year, so I decided to included this little image that caused some hilarity at my house the other night. I thought it was a cute play on words

I think that's enough 'pop culture' and random word vomit for today. Again, moving swiftly onwards. I began this blog topic back in May before I was about to leave for my study abroad in Venice and I want to continue or re-start it because this film and this designer I will be talking about are pretty special and by special I mean completely revolutionary and brilliant.

Today, I want to celebrate the career of one fashion's geniuses... the legendary, the fantastic, the stylish, the attractive, the REVOLUTIONARY Tom Ford and his masterpiece film 'A Single Man'. The film stars the exquisite Colin Firth in the titular role as a heartbroken English professor whose long term boyfriend dies in a car accident. The film takes place over the span of one spectacular day and I am here to divulge... but not destroy the mystique of the film and some plot deets... but I'm mostly just going to spill praise everywhere.

Introducing: Monsieur Ford, in his element, dealing with clothes. I'm guessing those ever so stylish sunglasses of his are probably his Tom Ford Brand, gosh they're pretty.

So I've already mentioned that Tom Ford is a genius, but let us count the ways:

1) After moving to Milan in 1990 and after working behind the scenes for four years he was promoted to Creative Director of Gucci - responsible for the complete revamp of the brand. And the in 2000 when the Gucci Group bought Yves Saint Laurent, Ford added Creative Director of YSL to his ever expanding list of duties. He singlehandedly managed to bring the sexy back to Gucci and revive the 'dying' brand to make it one of the most powerful fashion houses in the world. The house, which was apparently close to bankruptcy at the time Tom joined, was valued at 10 billion by the time he left. His 2004 farewell Gucci show is listed as one of the top 10 shows of the decade by style.com.

2) Well after some creative differences at Gucci, he moved on to menswear design and the establishment of his own name brand: Tom Ford. His already spectacular design aesthetic enables him to  make the most attractive men look even more delicious (I am NOT drooling, why, does it look like I am...?) 

He has dressed most of Hollywood's leading men and actually outfitted Daniel Craig as James Bond in Quantum of Solace.

'Nuff said.

3) Initially an art history student (!!!!!) at NYU, he transfered to Parsons School of Design to pursue architecture... these two aesthetics probably have some contribution to his fantastic eye for design. (I'm hoping the art history helped with his creative genius....)


4) He's bloody organized. He ran two fashion houses at the same bleedin' time and still managed to earn rave reviews!!!!


5) After mastering design (and not just clothing, but shoes, accessories, eyewear, perfume etc.) he decided it was time to test some new waters. His debut film  'A Single Man' released in 2009, is a freaking miracle. Pure film genius it gets it's own list of awesomeness below later. But, let's be serious. How much talent to you need to have to design and direct. It's by far one of the most poetic and visually stunning films I have ever seen.

The cast of the film (from left to right): Director Ford, Julianne Moore, Colin Firth, Nicholas Hoult and Matthew Goode. I betcha they're all wearing Tom Ford.

6) AND (finally) he's done all this... and is not even 50! I love it. Gosh, why don't all men look this good when they're that age.

I'm kinda in a list-y type of mood today (this is far too much fun). So below is (another) compilation of Why A Single Man is fan-freaking-tastic:

1) Hellooooooo?!?! It was directed by Tom Ford, duhh (Do I really need to include another picture?) Here's the logic: He's a designer, which means he already has an overly active imagination and eye for creative design, so of course everything is going to be beautiful and why the hell not eh?  I mean, making a movie is almost the exact thing as designing a runway collection... NOT! It's bloody hard to be good at one thing, let alone two and by god was this a brilliant first film, I look forward to many more by him.

2) The cinematography is CA-RA-ZY! The camera play is impeccable, really. Everything in the film is visually stunning, there is not a speck of dust or blade of grass that is out of place. The camera caresses the characters so lovingly and pans over some of the more morose scenes with such grace that, there is often no need for dialogue. For example, when our dear Colin Firth witnesses something that momentarily lifts his spirits the screen is diffused with, literally, a warm glow. The color becomes vibrant for a second and then slowly, as the mood changes, fades back to the dimmer tones from earlier. It is really and truly polished to perfection, because as I say again, the man is Tom Ford,  he knows what he's doing. 

3) Colin Firth is heartbreakingly wonderful. It truly is the role of his career. His portrayal of the English university professor, George Falconer, mourning the death of his long-term life partner is spot on. He won the Coppa Volpi - Best Actor prize at the Venice Film Festival and also won a BAFTA. He was also nominated for a Golden Globe, an Academy Award and a Screen Actor's Guild Award for Best Male in a Leading Role. Should be convincing enough to tell you that he does a brilliant job.

Beautiful and brooding. It's this mystique that earns him such rave reviews.

4) Yeah, so in addition to Colin, all the other actors are perfectly cast as well and they make it so hard to part with. 
Julianne Moore (Charley, Colin Firth's best friend from London) was beautiful and its a shame that her screen time isn't longer. She too was nominated for a Golden Globe Award for her work. 

The same can be said for Matthew Goode (Jim, Firth's dead partner) who only exists in flashbacks. 

One of the flashbacks in which George likes to retreat, again Ford is playing with us as the flashbacks are in a very stark black and white despite the fact that it is a happy moment for George, so why isn't it in bright color? I feel like chiaroscuro - one of my art history terms applies to this - it means 'light-dark' and was usually used in painting to add volume to figures. Here I feel that it adds emotional volume to the characters, as Jim is dead and while this is a happy moment we cannot enjoy it.

Then there is young British actor Nicholas Hoult (Kenny - a student of Firth who harbors feelings for him) who probably had all the pre-teen English girls rushing to the theatre to see him strip, as a result of his time on 'Skins' (the gritty English version of Gossip Girl... kinda).

And finalement, there is model Jon Kortajarena (Carlos a gorgeous distraction Firth meets at the liquor store). Jon actually was the model for Tom Ford's Spring Summer 10 line above (It's cause he's so great to look at, eh?)

5) The score by Abel Korzeniowsk is incredibly beautiful. This film doesn't have an overwhelming amount of dialogue. I'm not saying that it's a silent movie, but where there is no need for speech, there isn't any. On Korzeniowsk's website (which you should visit http://www.abelkorzeniowski.com/), the banner reads 'listen through your eyes'... and I think this is a perfect summation of what the music does to the film. It truly does enhance the scenes where there is no talking. My favorite song from the film is Clock Tick (http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=xJSjxC6sn2g) but others you should look out for are Stillness of the Mind and Sunset. Oh and did I mention he was nominated for a Golden Globe for Best Original Score (he should have won it, although I love the score for Up!)


6) Ford is not only the director, but he dresses the actors. Yes indeedy, all clothes and suits worn are items of clothing that Tommy boy himself has designed. Goodness me, he is a genius (ha oops, I've already said that)


7) While I'm lauding praise everywhere, it needs to be mentioned that this film is based on a book, of the same name, by Christopher Isherwood published in 1964, and if you're the book first-movie later type you should check it out. While I have yet to read the book, the plot of the film is fabulous and very refreshing. It is one of first books to openly deal with a homosexual relationship and Edmund White (novelist and literary critic, who also happens to be gay) said that it is "one of the first and best novels of the modern Gay Liberation movement". It's a touching story that is a testament to love and reminds us that people are all friggin' amazing regardless of gender, race, sexual orientation, age... you name it.


8) It's a simple film. Sorry for all you action lovers, you thrill seekers, you horror enthusiasts. This film is a love story and I'm going to be honest, it is not fast paced at all. It's brilliant, it's moving, it's happy and it's sad; it's a film you see because it is beautiful and it is touching and it's an experience, not because it's full of excitement (Sorry! I actually do think it's exciting but I'm an art dork like that). I'm pouring all these reasons why you should go see it, because I really really really liked it and want you to as well, but if you don't... I guess I'm not a very good salesblogger.

So there you have it, my short little list to persuade you to watch (what I believe to be ) one of the most poignant films of the past year. Wishing everybody well during flu season! I'm stuffed up like there's no tomorrow, bleurgh. Ciao!

- Life is good

Listening to: Clock Tick - Abel Korzeniowsk

Observations: Housemates back from the supermarket.... they bought caramel ice-cream... midnight trips to the fridge required. Shhhhhh!

Craving: The ice cream and I also convinced myself to watch this amazing movie called 'A Single Man'. Ha 

It's my party and I'll dress up If I want to

Whadd'up?!?!?!
Who said that? Yes, me, the Shak... I'm back? No, not a question, I'm pretty sure that's a statement. I'M BACK (how many times have I said that). 

So, I guess it's time to admit it. Summer is officially over, the other day was the first day of fall. I guess this means I need to retire all my summer clothes, my summer fashion archive (which I've been relying on and took me forever!) and, tear, my summer uniform (despite finishing work over 3 weeks ago.) Now that I'm back in Canada (woop) and back at uni (woop woop), I get to wake up to the cool Canadian wilderness everyday. Like this...

This is an image by Franklin Carmichael, a member of the Group of Seven, the most prolific band of painters in Canadian history. They specialized in painting landscapes during the 1920s and were heavily influenced by the Impressionist movement... across the pond, ya know, "where the history comes from" - Eddie Izzard.

This is another 'member' of the Group of Seven - Tom Thompson. He actually was never an official member (because he died before the group was actually formed... kinda a problem), but he was affiliated with them and many of the members were sympathetic to his style. I love Canadian foliage, yep yep.

Anyhow, yeah with the end of the Spring/Summer season comes... yes indeed, Fall/Winter and oh baby, this season is THE season. I'm not sure if I mentioned that this winter season is all about the new breed of simple, chic, wearable clothes... Minimalist is the new black. 

Here are two perfect examples of the 'new' minimalist that hit the runways. On the left, Frida Giannini threw some spectacular sleek trousers and jackets onto the Gucci runway, but this slate dress with the subtle slits is classic but still maintains it's sexy a la Tom Ford. On the right, Bottega Veneta's mannish interpretation of minimalist = the most sleek silhouette... I guess the whole 'minimal is the new black' may have been said a tad too soon.

With every season Christopher Bailey's Burberry gets harder and harder to handle, the clothes are just so fantastic, it kinda makes me salivate. Marc Jacobs and his many brands brought so much for the table that choosing an iconic look from them all was hard, but this jacket is the epitome of the season... subtly sexy and made for women with real figures.

Designers professed to wanting a return to the basics so that meant clean cut tailoring that came in the form of lush coats and jackets, high waisted, leg lengthening trousers, and long, full figured skirts. 

For the past several seasons Phoebe Philo has been creating minimalist fashions for Celine and it has often fallen on deaf ears, but the tastemaker is responsible for this season's boom in wearable clothes. While many of the trousers that marched down the runway were highwaisted, flared, her cigarette trousers perfectly counter the thigh skimming trench. On the other hand, Prada put out a collection so perfect it made girls everywhere scream and shout, these models and these clothes had hips! Finally

The colors came in a rich palette of camel, rust, plum and emerald and then the neutrals of white, beige, deep brown and navy. When it came to make up everything was pared back, neutral and exceptionally 'clean' <-- there's just no other word for it. 

Stella McCartney, the designer to the stars is adored by many... but this collection makes it all the more clear for those who belittle her for her famous connections. Chloe is responsible for many if not most of the sleek camel looks that swished down the runway. This camel coat is the item of clothing for this season. Go out and get one. Both jackets are stunning and come in the season's hottest colors: iron and camel

This is a bold statement, but there will be no more of this over the top sexed up fashion business (we normal humans can't pull off crotch skimming skirts and vamped up lipstick without looking rather ridiculous. All you glamazons like Freha Beha Erichsen and Karlie Kloss with your toothpick legs and fabulous bone structure, go right ahead, you'll look chic... Grrrrr).

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So yeah, this season = simple and wearable... Well scrap that for Louise Gray, our focus for today. She's the new, young, hip Vivienne Westwood of London's East End. Don't get me wrong, her clothes are totally they're chic and very tasteful, they're just slightly out there... and I really do mean that in the best possible way. 

Exhibit A) Spring 2010

Exhibit B) Fall 2010

Exhibit C) Spring 2011

Verdict? Yeah, she's kookoo catchoo ca-razy. And fabulous!!

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Her Spring 2o1o collection "Oh no babe" showcased the textile designer's talents at mixing and matching fabric to create a supremely joyful parade of clothes that I could see in place at a nine year old's birthday party. Electric eclectic clothing in bright colors featuring graffiti type scribbles and prints but in the form of shift dresses, shorts, jackets and trousers that are easy to wear, just very.... flashy.

This is what I call English neon grunge. It's clubby, gritty, peppy, poppy, camp... you name it. One of my best mates went to CSM and she's exceptionally stylish; however, she said she felt suburban and plain Jane compared to her classmates. I'm pretty sure some of these CSM kids probably own some Louise Gray and I bet they accessorize even crazier than Gray.

Pack these separates for a beach vacation to throw on top of a bikini or maybe go to a craft barn play with the glue gun and yarn. Hint, look at the shoes, I'm pretty sure something is nesting in em. Maybe, don't wear the dress on the top right to your job at the daycare... not sure the human anatomy is completely appropriate. 

Gray's playful collection required playful makeup. Case in point, dabbing paint below the eyelids and on the ears (mimicking earrings?). Hair thrown up into a bun is slightly messy, with tendrils snaking out but the majority of the hair is wrapped in cotton candy?!?! Yummy. Honestly I think of cupcakes when I think of this collection. Sweet to eat.

I love the loose sweaters with the knit on top. There's something so childish and innocent about the whole thing, it makes me really happy

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Welcome to the current season, Fall 2010!!!! And trust me, this whole "I'm-gonna-pare-back-and-be-minimalist-and-chic" does not apply to Ms Gray. She's way to cool for that.

This season the prints were less pop and more earth. The fabrics were more organic and while everything was still as bright as ever there were darker tones like a violet in the jacket above left, navy in the tee shirt above right and the olive jacket below right. Even the patterns were alittle tamer... but hardly Gucci or Celine.

The furry booties are particularly cute. I'm not going to lie, I'd love to slip 'em on before a swim practice or during a meet. Oooooooh how warm and you know you lose like half your body heat through your feet. Good idea Louise. 

Awwwww, blankie, so cute and endearing. So Gray is not the only one who showed a crazy furry suit this past season. Karl Lagerfeld and his crazy shenanigans, for his Fall 2010 show he had real chunks of ice brought in to the show and most of his models tromped down the runway in eskimo fur boots, but there was a FANTASTIC fur suit for his mens collection. Well, as a joke Creative Director of Elle, Joe Zee, traipsed around New York in the heat of summer in this suit. You gotta love a sense of humor. Especially from someone that deep in the fashion industry.

Bahahahahaha. Love it, he's so cute, sipping on his Starbucks.

Beauty: Well again, there is the clean makeup with some sort of paint (again) but this time it's plastered to the model's eyebrows. I swear my artsy friend said she met a girl at CSM who went out with sequin eyebrows.... maybe next season Louise?

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Spring 2011: Wooooah.... no I'm not psychic no, as we speak Fashion Week for next season is going on, so I have a ton of designers to canvas and plenty of screen shots to take. 

Gray seems to have taken inspiration from birds of paradise and I personally think of the magpie, despite it being a perfectly ordinary bird... I'm a self professed color magpie. These birds are attracted to shiny things and are complete kleptomaniacs. They build nests with objects that they have pilfered from their surroundings and this is what I see in this collection.

However, another bird I think of is the crowned crane. The models are wearing crested headpieces of purple rafia that are just too similar to the crane's crown to be a coincidence.

A kaleidoscope of different recycled materials are incorporated into her collection: buttons, bottle caps you name it and the raffia headresses add to the eclectic chic. She seems to have revisited her Spring 2010 collection of color inspiration but she is growing when it comes to her clothing construction. They're becoming more wearable (except the outfit below right) and infinitely more eye-catching. 

Anyway, I'm pooched, this took forever but it was so worth it. Kinda like a giant cleanse. Take care y'all

- Life is good

Listening to: 'Miami 2 Ibiza' - Swedish House Mafia

Observations: CSI, HIMYM, the Mentalist 

Craving: Some of my frigging amazing potato pancakes